Blogspot and I are having issues.....

I attempted to post in Porto but I couldn't get in--again!  It would not let me sign in from a strange computer...grrrrr.  So I gave up even trying--especially since 15 minutes costs ,50e.  It is not fun spending money attempting to make an uncooperative program pay attention to your needs!

Now that I have returned from sunny Portugal and Spain in good health and with no blisters (again!), I will attempt to post over the next days and perhaps weeks.  I will also try to post some pictures as I took well over 600 of them!  And did I say it was sunny?  Other than the day we arrived in Porto (a misty rain) and the day we walked into Santiago (again, misty rain), we had SUN!  I now have a brown ring around my neck and a brown tan line from my knee down to the top of my sock.  Tres chic!

On Friday, it was raining and an otherwise miserable, overcast day to leave town.  After a long flight from Washington, DC to JFK to Madrid, we arrived in Porto to rain and fog.  A great opportunity to try out our ponchos!  There was a mad huddle in the metro station as everyone attempted to get them out and on without killing ourselves with laughter as we became pretzels.  We found the tourist office at the airport and purchased tourist cards for the metro for 15euro.  These allow you three days of unlimited travel on the metro, buses and trams with no area limits.  I added up what we were already going to do and these were a good deal for us.  Porto's metro requires you to validate at little kiosks before you enter the station and each time you change trains--some obviously play the challenge game and ride the metro trains without cards (the fine is 165euro) as we saw some ignore the validation step. 

Once we arrived in the old city, we had to walk down a steep cobblestone street to our Hostel--The Dixo.  Unfortunately Rick fell on the cobblestones--caution, slippery when wet!  A skinned knee doesn't go too well with an exhausted traveler!  Especially when you are behind everyone else and no one notices....  We found the Dixo, walked up the stairs to reception and found that Mirelle was there, showered and having already scouted for food.  Our rooms were lovely.  They overlooked the street from three floors up.  After a little clean up, we were ready to eat and drink.  We walked up to the Praca de Liberdad (where there is a McDonalds Imperial--you should see this building!) and ordered wine and tapas at a little cafe.  We sat out under an umbrella and enjoyed the foot traffic around us.  A delightful meal on what became a pleasant if not just a little chilly evening.  We went over to the Cathedral to get our sellos and find our first Camino arrows.  Then back to the hostel for showers and bed.  We were tired little pilgrims!

I got up early the next morning.  Attempted to use the free internet and to blog but no go.  So I took my camera out on the deck overlooking the Duoro River and watched the sunrise over the city.  The Dixo is located in the heart of the Riberia area of Porto--the oldest part of the city and close to the docks.  The location is great and the staff very helpful.  Breakfast is included--wonderful rolls, cheese, ham, fresh orange juice, cafe with hot milk or hot chocolate, and cereals--up in the upper room (the deck is off this area--five floors up) with a panoramic view of the city and Gaia across the river.

Rick, Judy, Mirelle and I went to St. James Anglican Church for Sunday services.  We took the metro and then walked the six or seven blocks down.  Typically, St, James is surrounded by a tall stone wall with a little brass plaque reading "British Church of St. James".  When you walk through the gates, you are astonished by the lovely gardens, a fountain and a beautiful little church.  We were warmly greeted by a gentleman and invited not only to the service but to join them for sherry after the service.  Gotta love it!  I always forget that the Anglican service is just enough different from ours to cause me to stumble.  The sermon was long and rambling--I got several looks from my fellow pilgrims--as though I could do something about it?  After the service, we gathered at the St. James window (St. James dressed as a pilgrim) and said a prayer of blessing for the journey ahead.  Took our pictures there, greeted the Rector who was from Conn, and then walked back to the hostel.  Figured it was just as easy as walking north to take the metro. 

On our way, we encountered a bird market--lots of amazing parrots and other birds, lots of bird supplies and toys.  We saw so many birds in windows and on porches that I am inclined to believe that the Portuguese really like their birds.  We were running late but met Renee and Pat back at the hostel for our venture across the river--the Port tasting cellars.  Isn't that necessary when you are in Porto??  We decided to go for Taylors.  We crossed the Eiffel bridge and seeing the Taylor sign (800 meters but without a directional arrow), we veered to the left.  Not the best move as we climbed higher and higher and higher until we ran out of road and literally into a parking garage at the top of the hill!  A man in the garage told us we needed to go down and turn left at the first street.  Eventually we did find Taylor's but we were hot and tired and HUNGRY.  This is never a good combination when the day is beautiful and you are surrounded by lovely gardens, delicious looking food and divine Port.

We were dressed in our pilgrim garb and felt very underdressed at the Fladgate (Taylor's restaurant) but what the heck.  They were very welcoming and gracious to us.  Many of the tables were filled with a family obviously celebrating a child's birthday party (one special little girl with an amazing pink cake).  Mario, our waiter, was charming.  We started with a white Port--mighty fine.  Then came the food and more Port. Everything was delicious.  "Anything is possible in Portugal" became the new slogan as the meal progressed.  And then dessert and the BIG decision--which Port would we conclude with?  We tasted a 10 year, a 20 year and then the 40 year--you live only once.  A nice 40 year old would do just nicely!  So then, more than satisfied at all levels, we staggered away from the Fladgate and down into the Gaia area to stroll through the market area on the waterfront.  Let it be known that some purchases were made but not by Rick or me!  There are shoppers in the group.........you know who you are!

We walked across the bridge and took the tram up to walk the upper level of the bridge to see the city from that perspective.  Then back to the Riberia area to stroll around.  Lots of little shops and open market stands.  The problem is they all have most of the exact same things.  Porto is a lovely town.  It is important to wear good shoes because the cobblestones are everywhere.  Rick went to see if the Cathedral was open because he had forgotten his credential when the rest of us got our sellos (pilgrim stamps).  Unfortunately the Cathedral was open but the welcome desk was not.  Boo hoo. 

If you go to Porto, you MUST go inside the Sao Bento train station.  There are the most incredible tile murals on the walls.  Who would have thought you'd find something like that in a train station????  Then more pasteries and delights were purchased for an early breakfast--because on Monday morning at 6:30 a.m. we would begin!  That night Judy attempted to charge her Kindle.  Unfortunately she also blew out the circuit and the lights went out!  The night manager came up "very straaaaanga, very straaaaaanga" she said.  But it was quickly resolved and the lights went back on.  Unfortunately Judy's charger was a goner so she charged her Kindle on my charger and all was well.  How come the night was so short???  More to follow.

Departure Day has arrived!

After a year of thinking about this and planning for it, the day of our departure has finally arrived.  We will be in both DC and New York today--on the anniversary weekend of 9/11.  I am hoping skies will be clear over NYC so we can see the 9/11 World Trade Center site.  I give thanks to and for those who sacrificed so much to assist those who were in trouble.  I remember watching the buildings collapse in real time on TV that morning.  It was shocking beyond belief.  It is hard to imagine a hatred so violent that innocent lives are taken like they were that day....from those who died, from those who survived, and from those who lost loved ones.  And yet how many of us live with the awareness that any day might be our last?  How many of us remember to say "I love you" to those we love on a regular basis?  This is not to be fearful or unwilling to put ourselves "out there" but rather to simply carry the awareness with us always that our lives are not guaranteed to be long and healthy.  And with that awareness, to make each day count for something positive.  I love you.

I have my prayer list (growing by the moment, it seems).  I look forward to the lessons of the Camino and to the experiences that continue to shape me and reveal the stunning presence and grace of God.

The count down has begun.....

The packs are packed--after being unpacked and the contents spread out for examination.  It's not really all that much when you look at it but it still adds up to some weight!  And then there is the element of surprise.  What will the weather be like?  How warm, how cold?  Will there be rain and wind and fog?  Unfortunately the answer as to what to take is always the same:  whatever you are willing to carry!  Layers are a long distance walker's best friend. 

In our day to day lives, we'd like the burden to be light yet still be prepared for any event.  Isn't going to happen.  The more we get ourselves in a tangle about having something for everything, ironically the more burdened and frustrated we become.  Jesus says to us:  share my yoke-the burden is light.  When we work together rather than in opposition to one another, the work is indeed made lighter.  When the work is spread among many according to their gifts and talents, there is synergistic creativity and much more is accomplished than the task at hand.  So often what we take on as unmitigataed burden is our fear.  I consider how freeing it would be to take one change of clothing, no additional sandals, no fleece blanket--three or four pounds at least of stuff!  Would I?  Could I handle a pack so much lighter?  No problem!  And yet could I handle the possiblity of putting on the same wet, not very nice smelling clothes day after day?  Could my feet handle no change in footwear?  Can I trust that anytime it is cold, there will be a blanket available?  See what I mean about letting go and trusting?  Sounds good in theory but it is so hard for us to practice.  When we travel with little, it means we have to revise our expectations.  Still a few more days to consider what is necessary.  A few more days to consider how open I am to trusting the Camino to provide what I truly need rather than what I desire.  Lord, grant me wisdom and patience for the days ahead.  Help me see what I need to leave behind and what I need to take up.

A 10 Mile Shake Down

On Saturday morning, three of us gathered with full packs on to take a 10 mile walk on rolling country roads as Hurricane Irene was marching up the east coast.  Two couldn't make it--the two who haven't been walking regularly with packs on.  It was a wonderful morning to walk because the breeze was brisk and the skies cloudy.  I got some complaints about the hills but hey!  We made five miles in two hours--stopped for grapes, water and some sitting time.  Unfortunately I selected a spot to rest which happened to be a cactus bed!  Who would have thuoght there were cactus in Maryland?  There they were, those little prickly beauties, tucked in among the weeds.  The good thing about sitting on cactus is that you are not tempted to sit there too long!  And then it was two hours back as the skies were darkening and a little spritz of rain here and there began to fall.  It was a nice walk and companionable.  By the time we sat down for lunch (indoors), the rain began in earnest and the wind started to escalate.  The media were all over the approaching hurricane and the devastation to the south.  So we've survived an earthquake this week, a hurricane, and tornado warnings!

Everything felt fine with the walk.  With less than two weeks to go, that is a good feeling.  Rick and I tried out our new hydration systems.  Even those worked well.  Now I am beginning to think about going through the pack again.  What can I delete?  The weight felt fine--16# total, but you never know what might be lurking in there to be removed.  I keep thinking about the couple of times when it had been days since we could do laundry on the Camino due to rain and then having to wear nothing but my sarong while everything else was in the washing machine....dare I take even less than last time?  And then the little old guy in Pamplona comes to mind--the one wearing nothing but a thong and strolling around the alberque--and I realize that no, I think what I have packed is what I need.  A girl has to do what a girl has to do!

A little more than two weeks to go!

I am getting so excited!  I am SO ready to get on the plane and get going!  Just a few last minute but HUGE things to resolve and I will be ready to let go and let God!  That ability of the Camino to purge your mind and heart of all the petty stuff that fills your days is calling me right now.  I took a long walk yesterday all by myself (my husband and I have been walking together most every evening).  The early morning was beautiful and the day fresh.  It can be difficult to figure out how to carve out the time to both walk in preparation and to take the time away from a busy, demanding schedule--but then there is never a great time to do it, is there?  There will always be temptations to put it off, to never getting around to it.  So much of life can be frittered away by dreaming but never moving into action.  I cannot think of anything of value that does not come with a cost of some sort.

Many, many years ago, we were engaged in negotiations over the price of a house.  We were $500 or $1,000 apart.  A wise friend told us:  "over the time you will live in this house--which you have already said you love, is it worth the money to lose it?"  So often there is a cost to walk the Camino--and I am not talking about money (although there is that too!).  There is the cost of time, of energy, of saying goodbye to loved ones and careers for a little while, the cost of taking a risk when you do not know how this will affect/change your life. of letting go so that you can open yourself to what will be, and then, of course, the cost of returning.

The pack is packed.  I have labeled my camera.  Esentially I am taking exactly what I took last time with the exception of deleting very lightweight fleece leggings, replacing my wonderful hiking sandals with Croc sandals, and taking one extra pair of shorts & underwear because we will have to stay in a few hotels where drying overnight could be an issue.  We will be further south than the French Route so I am hoping that it will be dependably warmer--oh, oh!  Probably shouldn't be tempting the weather makers right now should I?  Those of us in Maryland (this is a diverse group including one from New Hampshire and someone I met on the Camino Frances from Canada!) will be walking this Saturday with everything we are taking.  Hopefully the hurricane will slow down a little and give us a pleasant morning!

I am a little nervous about the responsibility of taking so many people with me.  But since we are taking a route I have not yet taken, we are all new pilgrims on the Way.  I can truthfully say "I don't know!"  May God grant us patience and compassion for one another and give us the grace to rejoice daily that we have bodies and minds able to encounter this journey in all its fullness. 

Now I am REALLY frustrated and wondering.....

Why is it that I can now post to this blog again?  Just when I think I have it figured out, it is clear that I do not.  But such is the way of life.  Someone yesterday said "If you don't think too good, then don't say too much!"   So I'll be brief......

Three weeks from Friday my merry little band of pilgrims and I will be on our way to Portugal!  Now it's down to the final preparations.  Three of us took a short jaunt on the AT between Gathland and Weverton Road several weeks ago.  A nice, hot, humid day just to get things into a proper pilgrim frame of mind.  I've done this particular trek any number of times so it was fun to introduce it to my husband and neighbor.  They had never been on the AT. 

When we arrived at the half-way point (Ed Garvey shelter), there were four women there who had started from the same place we had but had started the night before.  Can you really walk that slowly???  But then my fellow pilgrims began to complain not long afterward.  "Can you turn off the rocks?" they cried.  Huh?  That IS the AT!  Now rocks and straight ups or downs is a real kicker but rocks on a relatively level ridge?  Without rocks to keep the trail stable, the trail would gradually sink into a trough (like the AT in the Smokies).  Not a bad walk really--especially for the AT--but getting off the ridge can be a pain, especially after the rocks have claimed their power over your knees and glutes.  A long switchbacked and steep trail is not exactly music to your legs when they are already moaning the blues. 

What surprised me though were the runners running UP.  Just how many people use this as as a quick little jog to get the ole heart pumping???  We also encountered a family with small children and an infant in a "nest" strolling UP!  There is a pay off at the top of the Weverton Road trail making it worthwhile--the Weverton rocks looking out over the Potomac River and Harper's Ferry.  Very, very pretty view. 

I remember the first time I encountered this trail--on my way north out of Harper's Ferry after the long paved walk on the C&O.  Not pretty.  I was already hot, tired and dripping with sweat only to look up and gasp.  Can't believe I now use this as a delightful 6.7 mile walk--from north to south however!  One does hopefully learn from one's experiences!

On Saturday, August 27th, five of us will walk 12 miles with full packs on come rain or come shine.  This is the average distance we'll be walking each day so it's good to have a feel for how the group is going to manage before we hit the big time.  Also to check out how packs have been packed, etc. to hopefully catch any issues before we leave town.  I have never hiked with a group so this is going to be a new experience for me as hiking for any distance is for them.  I have no idea what to expect so stay tuned!  Especially if I ever get access to this blog again.

Camino Portuguese - September 2011

The plane reservations have been made--leaving Friday, September 9th!  Two weeks to walk from OPorto to Santiago.  The difference this time is that there will be six other folks with me, including my husband.  It will be fascinating to see how having others along will change the Camino experience.  I am already looking forward to the time spent walking, watching and wondering.  My lenten discipline has been to ponder what the journey has to reveal and how open I am to receiving it.  It is so much harder to listen for God's voice and then to listen to it than it is to put my own opinions and thoughts "out there".

As I contemplate the Passion Gospel for this year and Jesus' silence before his accusers, it reminds me how often we are closed to hearing the Word of God.  Why should Jesus speak if no one will listen?  Why should Jesus defend himself when we are determined to say what we will about him and grow incensed if anyone--and especially he--disagrees?  I always find myself tearing during the reading of the Passion Gospel--and feeling complicit.  How have I betrayed him?  How many times have I denied him?  How have I joined with crowds in accusations?  How have I made decisions which have been guided more by pubic opinion than by my own integrity?  Until we own up honestly to our own part, it is impossible to fully comprehend the power and grace of Easter.  Until we are ready to look beyond life as we have known it and want it to be, it is impossible to experience the fullness of Easter resurrection and new life.  May the tomb of my heart be found empty of all that is life taking..........