In Fonfria

Well I have decided to slow down. My Canadian friends were off to a 28k day. Not for me. My legs are in pain--so much so it was difficult to sleep last night. So I ended today around noon with a little down time to write and just converse with others. Tomorrow I may go only to Tricastela--we´ll see how I feel in the morning. This is a tiny, tiny town. Four houses, some cows and chickens and us pilgrims. The albergue is very nice and very few of us are here. Such a delight! The climb over O´Cebrerio this mornign was lovely but oh, the ups and downs today! And after the mountain climb yesterday.......well, this is the end of mountains. Santiago is coming closer and closer and Galacia is beautiful. It is very cool and autumn has definitely arrived. Lots of turning leaves and the air is bright and fresh. Blessings upon you all.

Villafranca de Bierzo

Today was another long one on pavement. I continue to be surprised by the amount of walking on the Camino involves walking on concrete and other hard surfaces. My legs are killing me. But we took the alternate route through the vineyards and watched the grape harvest. They also plant apple and pear trees in the vineyards so several men were picking fruit. With the bedbug scare in the municiple alberque, we are staying in a private one on the other side of the bridge. Very nice and quiet. <

Now in Ponferrada--only 202km from Santiago

We have decided to slow down. Now no more than 22k per day. Those 30+ days are too hard on the body and soul. Besides the heat has returned in the afternoons. We are still leaving around 6:30 to 7 a.m. but dawn is now after 7:30 a.m. One of my learnings from the lost camera is that I have to take time to take the images into my mind and heart--which involves slowing down to notice. Yesterday´s sunrise was one of the most beautiful of all. I purchased a new camera in Astorga (did I already mention this?) because I want you to be able to see some of the wonderful people and vistas I am enjoying. The man at the camera shop was very compassionate. Though he did not speak much English and I am challenged to some extent in Spanish, he did everything he could to explain and check things out. He set the date, time, and language for me (English instructions are on CD which obviously I could not use!) and gave me an extra set of batteries and a camera case at no charge. The instructions came in French, German and of course, Spanish, so now my French companions have been helping me. I now have this camera clipped to my pack so it cannot get away!

We climbed the highest elevation on the Camino yesterday from Rabanal. Going up is fine for me. And up we certainly did go. Placed my rock at the Iron Cross yesterday (a pilgrim tradition to leave your rock as a symbol of letting go of your burdens) amid the crowds. Many people had arrived by taxi so it was a bit disconcerting to wait in a line one more time. I did discover on the way down from the Iron Cross that leaving your rock is only a transition, not a completion. Letting go is much more difficult than a single act. But when I placed my rock, it instantly slipped away and out of sight among the many rocks so there was no way to ¨take it back.¨ Guess that commits me to doing the work involved in letting go. I spent the long, rocky descent thinking and contemplating--though the rocks on the descent took a great deal of concentration and focus. One mistep and you are toast. Guess that is the way of rocks! One false move and they get you! But when you give one away, it slips away from your grasp. Letting go of what burdens our souls and minds is not easy. The first step is identifying the burdens and the second is the reality that sometimes we would rather hang on to them for a variety of reasons. After all, if we let them go, we might have little to complain about!

We stayed in Reigo last night--oh my, what a terrible climb down from the mountain. Rocky and steep. My feet and knee were killing me. But still no blisters. We had stopped for a while to take off boots and drink water in Acebo but nothing was open there except the bar. The Reigo alberque is nice. Each bunk is in its own little room with sliding doors for privacy. And there is room for only 24 people so no crowd scenes. A refreshing change. It is operated by the owner of the bar--hence no other facilities to buy food in the town. Reigo must be a retirement or vacation town as many of the houses were very beautifully restored and plentiful plantings. Expensive cars parked out front. The church there is lovely and surrounded by olive trees and views of the mountains that can´t be beat. I ate dinner last night at the Ënglish¨table. A couple from South Africa, a French woman, and a German woman from East Germany--since we all spoke English, I could understand everything for a change. We had a wonderful conversation about the state of church and how we come to believe what we believe. The Camino is an incredible mixture of culture and religious experience. It is fascinating to learn about others´ experiences and questions. In many ways, we are so very similar and the questions that drive us are the same. And yet our cultural situation shapes what we expect from the church. Some expect nothing and others expect everything.

Took a short day today to land in a city with stores because nothing is open on Sunday (they still practice Sabbath and the tradition of the long Sunday walk). We arrived with absolutely no food in our packs. We have been unable to purchase additional food for the past two days--had to make do with whatever we had and eat dinner in bars. So tonight we will cook! Ponferrada is a beautiful city. We toured the Templar Castle and walked through the various town squares. I ended up purchasing a camera in Astorga so I took Grace´s picture in front of the Castle. The basillica here is probably the most peaceful of those we have been able to enter (most churches continue to be locked). There is an organ concert tonight but it is too late for us pilgrims to attend. The town refugio is lovely and manned by volunteers. You can take showers and do your laundry when you arrive as check in for rooms is not until 2 p.m. This is a very nicely thought out refugio. Bunks are in rooms of 4. There is a refugio cat who is very friendly. And there are grapes growing on the trellis which are cut each day, washed and offered to pilgrims. I took a picture of the line-up of packs. Many, many are here. Some familiar faces in the crowd. The line at 4 p.m. was as long as the line at opening. I think there will be many headed for Villafranca tomorrow. We went to the grocery. Dinner tonight will be veal with mushrooms and green peppers, boiled potatoes, green salad with carrots, cucumber and white asparagus, and for dessert--apple cake. And of course, wine and bread. A bottle of good Rioja wine is about 2 euros. You just can´t beat that!

Blessings upon you all. May the Holy Spirit find an opening in your heart for the peace and understanding you seek.

In Astorga

After a long night of tossing and turning and remembering all the photos I now I have lost, I am coming to terms with it. This morning during my prayer time, I heard the messsage: the treasure is in your heart not in a box. And within minutes, there was a tiny sacred heart image painted on one of the Camino bollards. I began to cry and to think and remember all those people and images I really do treasure and indeed, they/you are carried in my heart. I am still very sad about the loss but there is nothing we can do when things happen other than learn from them what there is to discover. Grief is such a confounding thing. It comes and goes like the wind--and yet as we contemplate what we have lost, we discover the beauty and lessons of what we had and yet continue to have. I will check with the albergues here in Astorga to see if by chance anyone turned in the camera but I have no hope that it will be found.

Santiago is getting closer. One picture I took in Leon said there was only 330k to Santiago. It is hard to believe that this time is drawing closer and closer. Today is a beautiful, clear fall day. I give thanks to God for good weather, good companions and for those who love and care about me. Blessings be with you.

The really good news about Spain......

Not only is the country beautiful and the people gracious but the wine is both good and cheap, the bread excellant and the cheese.......well the cheese is enough to keep you drinking wine and eating bread. I am coming to the stark reality that my camera will not return. But with two bottles of wine (how can you fault good wine at 2 euro a bottle??), good company and plenty of cheese, I am coming to terms. I will simply have to remember in my quickly fading mind what I have seen and experienced. I was hoping to have photographs to bring things to memory but that is, I guess the way of the Camino. Things are given and things are taken away. I continue to meet more Canadians so I guess that is my fate. Many share my pain at this loss--such is the companionship and compassion of the Camino. Tomorrow Astorga and perhaps the purchase of another camera. We´ll see. I simply cannot imagine arriving in Santiago without a photographic moment. Looks like I just might make the walk to Finisterre as well. No blisters, knee holding OK, but the legs are tired and hurting. Ibuprophen is a miracle drug. Continue to pray for the return of the camera--I cannot imagine a pilgrim picking it up and not attempting to find the owner. Blessings this beautiful but sad night.

Now if I can only stop crying

Somewhere between the end of the puente and the albergue, my camera disappeared. We´ve been up and down the street four times, checked with the local bars, and talked with pilgrims but it is gone. So are all my pictures--some 500+ of them. I am sick. I´ve given my name and phone number to some Italians moving forward and the albergues here both have my name but I have no hope that it will turn up. I would hope a pilgrim would turn it in here but sometimes what is lost becomes truly lost. I pray that it will show up--after all, Grace´s picture in Leon is on that chip. Pray for me that the profound sadness I feel will lift. Blessings on this day from one very, very, very sad peregrina.

Beautiful day in Hospital de Orbiga

Leon is delightful. Took lots of pictures. The Cathedral breathtaking and San Isodore lovely. We had our pictures taken with the very tired pilgrim in St. Mark Square--and Grace had her picture taken with him too. After a brief visit in Leon, we are now in Hospital de Orbigo. Beautiful sunny day with a light breeze. The Meseta is tough. Not because it involves climbs or anything like that. It is tough because it is long, rocky and when mixed with asphalt, it is so hard on the legs and feet. I don´t think I ever have to do this part again! At least the weather has turned delightful though still a little on the cool side.

Last night we were once again astonished by pilgrims who do not look around to be aware of others. Everyone was trying to sleep so I got up and turned off the lights. One girl got up and turned on the lights. Then left them on. I got up and turned them off again. She wanted them on for some strange reason I could not understand because she was Korean--but everyone there was trying to sleep. Then off again with the lights until later at curfew when several pilgrims came in and threw on all the lights and began talking loudly and laughing. It is a reminder to stay in the smaller albergues.

Wish you all could see this beautiful country. The people are so warm and welcoming. Each time I am in a city, the number of people who go out of their way to help pilgrims is touching. One man walked us to the alberque. A woman hailed us from across the street to point out the way. And though I do not speak much Spanish, I have been able to navigate remarkably well. And met additional Canadians yesterday and today. I swear there can be no one left there! More to follow.

May God bless you on your own journey. May the grace of God open your eyes to see the beauty laid out around you. And may the peace of Christ open your heart to receive the bounty found in the generosity of others. This is an amazing journey, my friends, and I thank you for the opportunity to experience it.

Arrived in Caldadilla de la Cueza

We are slowing down. The Meseta really takes its toll. The path is wide and straight and fairly level but the rocks and wind really take it out of you. It is cold--40 degrees F in the morning and very windy. The days don´t warm up that much either. We were in Carrion last night. Stayed in Hostal Santiago. As we came into town, a woman told us the alberque we were looking (Espiritu) for was not good and recommended this place. Turns out it is HER place. We shared a room with two German women who spoke no English so we spent a lot of time with sign language. Guess it was OK because we only had to share a bathroom with a few other people. But the German women woke up very early this morning (one was a snorer) so we too ended up getting going early. Marcel may have a stress fracture so we are evaluating options at this point. One of the pilgrims we started with in St. Jean had to be rushed to the hospital yesterday--he passed out and couldn´t be revived. The Camino takes its toll.

We had dinner at a little bar and I finally got some beef! After a quite good salad with beets and carrots and other vegetables (a real treat as vegetables are not all that easy to come by), the beef turned out to be pot roast in a delicious broth. Ah, heaven! For two days I have been craving some red protein. The fish has been good but not very much of it on a little trout. There have been no kitchens so we have been unable to make boiled eggs. Carrion is a pretty little town. We sat at the window at the bar and watched all the townspeople leave the church and begin their evening rambla. The Spanish take Saturday evenings very seriously. First you go to church and then you walk. Everyone is out and the children run everywhere. There may have been a wedding yesterday afternoon because the whole town was outfitted in suits and dresses and we saw a couple--she was dressed in a very traditional dress with a flower in her hair and the man had a matching tie with his suit. Then we saw vases of beautiful flowers being carried through town.

We decided to take a short day today as everyone is tired and we do not know how Marcel´s leg is going to go. In addition, Frances has broken out with something so I gave her benedryl. We will rest here this afternoon and decide. The sun has finally come out so maybe the laundry which has been damp now for two days will finally dry. So far my feet are fine. No blisters. I am almost embarassed as it seems to be a pilgrim thing to compare them. My legs hurt but if I slow down, I can make the distance. It is tempting to try to go faster to keep up with people who are much younger--this is not wise.

Long discussion with some other pilgrims yesterday about trust. How difficult it is to trust, how often we withhold it from one another, and how easily it is destroyed. It is amazing to have these conversations with people from all over the world.

Arrived in Fromista

Today did not begin well. First there was a woman in our room who snored loudly and when someone tried to tell her she was snoring, she called them a nasty name and went right back to snoring. Then she woke at 5 a.m. and insisted that everyone get up! It was raining heavily this morning, windy and COLD. So into the darkness we went only to reach a terrible climb right off the bat. Nothing like cold rain to get your spirits dampened as you climb a very steep climb. At the top there was nothing but fog. Pyrenees here we are again. And then on the way down, the clay soil stuck to your boots making each one weigh about five pounds more. We tried to walk in the fields but that was just as bad. Now let me give you a picture: imagine having to pee and it is raining and cold, you have a pack on your back and are covered with a poncho. What do you do? My answer to that question was: you do nothing. You keep right on walking. Not a good way to start a morning. I can appreciate those who walk in the spring rains. Even after the rain stopped, the mud did not. Boots are a mess and mud is all over everything from the knees down.

The Meseta continues on gravel roads and mud ones. We stopped in Boadillia to prepare a lunch of bread, wonderful tomatoes, Manchego cheese, and cookies. The albergue in Boadillia has a beautiful garden with sculptures and lots of green grass around a swimming pool. Beyond Boadillia, the roadside is really pretty. Many beech trees and a lovely canal. Still cold and overcast with ocassional sprinkles. Two of us have matching red ponchos and we are known as the ¨tomatoes¨ so today the tomatoes were in constant view of anyone following us on the Camino.

We arrived in Fromista around 1 p.m. We are staying at a relatively new albergue, Estrella, which is several blocks off the Camino. It is still cold but since we were not able to wash laundry yesterday, today we had to do something or the offending odors would make us very unpleasant to be around. So took hot showers (no, I did not wait for everyone else today) and then laundry. But it is not drying in the cold, damp air. And now it is raining again. The owner put the laundry lines in his garage so hopefully over night it will dry a little more. A nap was nice but again, cold so wrapped up in two blankets. Food choices today weren´t great but dinner was offered at 6 p.m. (versus the usual Pilgrim meal at 7 or 7:30) so OK. Had ensalada mixta, fried eggs, and rice pudding, and of course, bread and wine. Tonight will probably be an early to bed night. We have a man who snores (naps tend to reveal their presence) and who takes longer to get into bed than anyone I have ever seen. He can rustle more plastic bags and zip and unzip more zippers than I thought was possible to carry on the Camino. The presence of such people continues to remind me that we are constantly surrounded with challenging people but we are still called to be gracious and respectful. Not always easy or even a first response, but it is the way we are called to be. God´s blessing be upon you.

Now in Castrojeriz

Left Burgos yesterday morning in the pouring rain and 8 degrees centigrade. Very, very windy. Ran into familiar faces in Burgos. It always surprises me how frequently I know someone now in the crowd. Went to the farmacia for a knee brace, walked through a spectacular supermercado near downtown with all fresh fish, meats, olives, herbs, vegetables and fruits and breads. Walked to Rabe. Stayed in the recently reopened albergue there. The nasty French woman from the other albergue tried to convince us that we had to come to her place. We did not. She sat at her table with a scowl all afternoon. No one went to her place until the first albergue was full.

The remoded albergue is very nicely done. Dinner was good but NO WINE! How can a pilgrim expect to go on without wine? Left this morning in the darkness--dawn is coming later and later and there is no longer much of a moon. Got to Hontanas around 10 a.m. The day started with clouds, wind and very cold but by late morning, the sun began to peek through and the temperature rose a little. Still cold but a very nice way to walk the Meseta which are the plains of Spain you hear so much about. I cannot imagine doing this on a hot, sunny day. My hat is off to those who do it! So many new wind turbines going up! The cranes were very busy today lifting the columns up.

The terrain has changed so much over the past weeks. I can hardly believe that today I begin my third week. I have gone from mountains and forest to vineyards to fields of hay and wheat to vast plains. The many animals of the first weeks have disappeared. Very few farm animals are apparent now.

Arrived at Castrojeriz around 1 p.m. A long 4k walk to Castrojeriz along the road. Yuk. Had a cold shower--that will teach me to be gracious and let everyone else go first. It is cold and now I am still cold. Then off to the little tienda for tomatoes, bananas, wine and bread for the grand sum of 4 euros. I find myself living on bread, wine, cheese and fruit. This is a lovely little town. So much renovation going on. And an amazing panoramic view of the land. Lunch and then a little nap. I continue to be surrounded with Canadians. I am beginning to wonder if there is any one left in Canada! Last night and today almost everyone is from Canada. And by the end of the trip, I may understand a little French! I am already getting some of the conversations--which is lucky since that is practically the only language I hear. However I am the one they turn to when they need someone to interpret the Spanish. I did meet a young woman today from South Africa. It was nice to have a conversation with someone for whom English was their usual language. She walked to Santiago from Astorga last year and began this year from Burgos to walk to Astorga. She hopes to start from St. Jean next year and go to Burgos.

I keep leaving bits and pieces. And isn´t that the way? We get busy or distracted and suddenly discover that something we thought was important is now gone. Whether that is a possession or our youth or even a friendship. I lost my towel, lost my laundry soap and line and clothespins, and I am almost afraid to look deeply into my pack today to discover what I may have left in Rabe. Two Canadian women came in late yesterday--having just arrived in the country, talked loudly when we were trying to nap, got up several times during the night and left the door open so the light shone in my face, and then got very insistent with me this morning when I was trying to pack up--to get out and close the door! I didn´t thoroughly inspect around my bunk in my hurry to get out so I kept wondering today what was left behind.

I continue to marvel at the people who act as though no one else is affected by their behavior. The people who won´t turn out a light when they come in late, who sing loudly in the shower when others are trying to nap, who leave their messes in the kitchens, who leave their trash every where, and who talk on their cellphones when others are trying to sleep. There are many wonderful and gracious pilgrims but unfortunately there appear to be almost as many self absorbed and selfish ones.

Each day I ask for God´s guidance and love for you and for me. I don´t know when I have had so much time to reflect in silence. Thankfully my walking partners do not chatter so that my walking time is truly dedicated to prayer, reflection and raising up of many questions to God. I give great thanksgiving that I have this tremendous gift of time and a body that continues to perform admirably. No blisters. Only a knee that continues to act up from time to time. God´s peace.

Have arrived in Burgos

The crowds continue. Today is cold and very windy. We left Villafranca this morning (stayed in a lovely albergue attached to a hotel. Very nice and the same cost as the municiple!) and crossed the second of three mountain ranges. Long day. We are at the new refugio in Burgos right near the Cathedral. Very nice. Many familiar faces here. Including the man who wore the black thong in Pamplona. He is still roaming around but is thankfully dressed this time! Turns out many of the younger ones have been using buses to skip the ¨boring small towns¨ so that is why we rarely see them on the trail. This is one hopping place tonight. The partying is strong with the bikers and younger ones. We got the last two beds and a mattress tonight. We are in the ¨laundry room¨on the fourth floor which could be a real problem because the light automatically turned on at 7 p.m. tonight and there is no way to turn it off or on. The joys of Camino! Not much time and there is a line waiting to use the internet so I will hopefully get to update tomorrow. God is good and grace abundant.

Now in Redicilla del Camino

We began around 5 a.m. this morning. WAY too early but we are in the midst of a crowd before and after us. The refugio in Asofra is very nice. Two beds to a room! They did have to open up both the annex refugio and the original small one next to the church. Every bed was taken by 1 p.m. We were in rooms 0 and 1. Very noisy as the reception area and common gathering area is right there--but this morning it was great because we could get out without disturbing anyone. Additional toilets are right there. We walked into Santo Domingo around 8 a.m. this morning in time to stop for fresh pastries and coffee close to the Cathedral. Such is the pilgrim life. You get up, get your stuff together, take a big swig of water, eat a fruit or yogurt and get moving. By the end of the first hour or so you begin thinking about how good a hot cup of coffee sounds. By the second or third, you start to wonder about what might taste good with that coffee. Today is a big festival in Santo Domingo so many preparations were at hand. Parade horses were being readied and the street cleaners were out in force. I have been so impressed with the cleanliness of the many towns. Most of the towns I know in the USA could never come close. Unfortunately the Cathedral in Santo Domingo was closed up tight--as have been many of the churches we´ve passed, so I didn´t get to see the rooster and hen.

We stopped to take our boots off and eat some fruit in Granon after deciding to go on. Leaving Granon, we entered the Leon region. Looking at an overall map of the Camino, it doesn´t look like I´ve gone very far at all. We are now in Redicilla del Camino, a donativo public refugio. The tiniest showers on earth but hey, when you need a little warm water, almost anything will do. It is filling very quickly. I was hoping the crowding would begin to slow down but so far, no luck. There are many we started with who are behind us now but there are just as many (or more??) ahead. There are some young men doing 31 to 38 kilometers a day to see if they can get ahead of all this. I continue to be impressed by people who labor on with blisters and major physical pain. I continue to be unimpressed by people who go only from one town to the next and then sit there drinking the inexpensive wine all afternoon. I know I shouldn´t be judgmental but when everything is so crowded, it does irritate just a little.

Many couples are on the Camino. In conversations, it seems one partner was convinced to do this by the other. This is not a good combination. You have to be personally drawn to the Camino or it is bound to be a disappointment or problem. Several couples are experiencing some real distress because the less interested one is finding the struggles and the crowds to be too much. You have to walk your own Camino whether you come alone or come with someone. No one else can do it for you. At the same time, no one can force you to embrace the sacrifices and discomforts with any sense of joy or expectation if you do not want to be here. Some came expecting a cheap European vacation. Certainly the refugios are typically inexpensive and the Camino towns do their best to provide hospitality at a reasonable cost. But this is not a vacation. If you can´t handle the physical and emotional cost of the Camino, you will leave wondering why in the world it continues to draw so many into its embrace. I have been fascinated by the families (parents and young adults) who are doing the Camino together. There has been some real bonding where everyone was excited and committed to doing whatever it takes. But where there is unrealistic neediness, there are some fractures occuring.

The weather today is cool and cloudy. Excellant weather for walking long distances. We did more than 19 miles today at better than 3 miles per hour despite the inclines. But my body is not pleased. Today I hurt all over. But especially my legs. This is the first time I have felt like I really need a day off. Today was a mix of pavement and hard packed clay and gravel road. I wonder if I lost an inch of height today?? The next mountain range looms right after Belorado. I am debating going the 10k to Belorado tomorrow and calling it day.

This is my second Sunday on the Camino. I hold St. James´in my daily prayers but especially on Sundays I ask for God´s direction and grace for our congregation. May your Camino, wherever it may be, take you to the places where you will encounter the risen Lord.

Arrived in Asofra today

I am now one day ahead of schedule but that´s OK. We did a HOT pavement walk yesterday of over 18 miles. My feet are still in good shape but pavement is hard on the knees and the feet. I have fallen into a ¨family¨of French Canadians and a Belgium. It does help starting out in the darkness with others. With more eyes to watch for flechas amarillas it is harder to take a wrong turn. Also we have been cooking dinner together which makes it cheaper and more nourishing. Tevo left us early yesterday morning to take the train back to Belguim so we are down to four. The crowd surge continues to dog us. Everything fills by 1 p.m. The little old woman serving coffee and toast outside of Logrono told us she had counted over 365 pilgrims the day before. Some of the older ones have decided to drop out. They came in September expecting small numbers and no problems finding beds. The refugio in Ventosa yesterday said they usually have 5000 per year. They have already exceeded that number by last week. There were folks standing outside at Ventosa who either had to walk an additional 10k or take a taxi. It was a terribly hot day helped at times by a cool breeze. The old woman asked me to take a Korean bible--left behind at her house--to the little Korean man. I had sat next to Mark at the pilgrim´s dinner at Roncesvalles and we have met several times on the way. So who should I see the moment I arrived in Ventosa? Mark--who was delighted to get his bible. I continue to be amazed by the familiar faces on the Camino. Over and over again I see the same people but not consistently. When I moved forward to Los Arcos, I seem to have caught up with the crowd I started with at Roncesvalles. Many nationalities are represented. It reminds me how provincial Americans can become--both in language and in cultural differences. I wonder what it would be like to know ¨The Peace of the Lord be with you¨in 30 different languages? Maybe I should begin asking each to write it down and to help me with pronunciation........

I have learned that you need to stop somewhere on Saturdays early enough to shop in a tienda(shop) for Sunday´s food. If you don´t, you are at the mercy of whatever you might be able to find open. Hopefully your Saturday stop is in a town large enough to support a tienda. This takes some thinking and planning. We will purchase food for cooking tonight and food for tomorrow´s breakfast and lunch. Our goal tomorrow is either Granon or Redicilla. If we had continued today to Santa Domingo, it would have been 31k--I was not in the mood to do that!

Today is another beautiful day. A bit cooler than the past few days. Rain is forecasted so we´ll see. Everytime I look at my poncho and think about sending it on, I am reminded that I might need it. I have used everything in my pack except for my fleece blanket. I could have used it last night but I didn´t want to dig it out in the middle of the night!

The grapes look like they are close to harvest time. The past two days have taken us past vineyards plump with dark red grape clusters--Roija wine. Needless to say, the wine is inexpensive and very good. The refugios sell wine so you never have to be without. Until I get access again (1 euro per 20 minutes--which is a stretch because the machines are so slow that you really only get 15 minutes)--there are many waiting. God´s blessings surround you, Christ´s peace be within you and may you be open to the guidance of the Holy Spirit. Buen Camino!

Now in Los Arcos

Just a brief update. I did a LONG day today--over 18 miles. I am hoping to take a short one tomorrow. We´ll see. Blessings to you all. Weather continues to be hot and clear. Same tomorrow.

Arrived in Lorca

In Pamplona, the two young women who bunked with me made dinner and invited me to join them (in thanks that I did their laundry and brought it dry and folded to their bunks)--fresh lettace salad (alleluia!), boiled potatoes and little sausages. So in the city of wonderful food, I ate in the refugio kitchen. But it was good. We had to laugh at the elderly man walking around the refugio in nothing but a thong who leered at every woman. If it had been one walk to his bunk, OK, but he strolled throughout the refugio several times. Give me a break! Guess he had to put all his laundry in at the same time! Getting out of Pamplona in the dark (well, there area plenty of street lights!) was OK because I spied some folks just ahead and kept them in sight. And thankfully there was no traffic. The markings are very clear coming into Pamplona but not at all sufficient upon leaving. The two fellows I followed and I both used city maps to figure it out. Sunrise over Pamplona was breathtaking. It is a city worth visiting for several days.

The weather is beautiful--clear skies and bright sun. I have been leaving by 6:30 a.m. to walk in the moonlight. You do have to be careful though not to be so thoroughly engaged in prayer that you totally miss the path marking--as I did this morning! I started at 5:30 a.m. this morning to avoid the heat and the snoring Italian in the next bunk. Somehow the moonlight, the stillness and the fragrance of fresh mown hay took me to another place. So once again I put in more mileage than was planned. Do you know how I figured out something was wrong? No pilgrim trash. I am ashamed of my fellow pilgrims who leave their wrappers, empty bottles, etc. along the trail side. When I realized I wasn´t seeing any, I stopped. Someday I will learn to pay good attention if I´m going to be walking in the dark!

Stopped in Cizar Menor for coffee before the long climb up to Alto de Pardon. Spanish espresso is the best. I´ve started asking for my cafe solo grande con leche just to keep the calcium intake up a little. Lots of little crocus along the trail. And the blackberries--oh, the wonderful blackberries. God´s little treat sprinkled along the road. As I climbed I began to count all the things I need forgiveness for but it wasn´t long before I was led to consider all those I need to forgive. How can I ask for forgiveness if I am unwilling to extend it to others? Don´t you just get irritated by that part of the Lord´s Prayer? The Alto de Pardon is incredible--we had fun taking pictures. My two bunkmates arrived about the same time I did so we took each other´s pictures. They are both suffering physically and were not sure how much they could continue. The view from there is amazign. You can see just how far you have walked--awesome, and how much further you have to go before the next set of mountains. But the steep,rocky path down was ugly. One young woman ran down it and then wondered why her knee blew out. Lots of blisters and tendon pain for the younger folks. They go so fast. The older ones suffer from the heat and the need for endurance. Then there is that steady contingent of folks who just keep plodding along.

I stayed in Urtega last night. A delightful little alberque with bunks and private rooms upstairs. The one problem was there was no provision for doing laundry. When you are hot and stinky and only have one change, getting the funk out is important. Guess I´m getting there anyway because as I sat having an orange juice, I wondered what that gruesome smell was--turns out it is my pack. Once again the hoards came by wanting a bunk but all was full. The old ones are getting slower and arrive after everything is completo. Their faces are hard to see when they realize that they must continue on in the heat. There are so many people on the trail that today was a steady procession of pilgrims over the hill and down. It was like driving down 270. I decided to stop in Lorca rather than continuing into Estella for two reasons: the heat and the numbers. I walked further today than I had anticipated (both because of my mistake and I arrived at my planned destination at 10 a.m.) I keep saying to myself ¨take it slow, take it slow¨and sometimes I even listen! So far the feet are fine and I haven´t had to take any pain medication. But getting up after sitting for a while is tough...... The food has been wonderful. Last night´s pilgrim meal was paella, roast chicken with fries, and a delightful apple cake or fresh fruit and of course the obligatory all you can drink wine. I did buy some bread, yogurt and cheese in Pamplona so I have been snacking on that during the day.

Now I´m off to get a lemonade and a shower. And hopefully get some clothes washed and hung out to dry. May God´s blessing be upon you and the peace of Christ within you.

Arrived in Pamplona

Left Zubiri this morning around 6:30 a.m. Very cold--could see your breath, but absolutely clear. Was able to walk by moonlight again until dawn. Found no coffee until 10 a.m. from a little tent set up outside someone´s house. Excellent coffee and homemade bread pudding. Turned out to be another beautiful day. Warming up around 11 a.m. Arrived in Pamplona at noon. I really am walking slowly. I don´t know how I am getting places so ahead of others. A fellow pilgrim from Hungry got there about the same time so we sat on the step and ate our bread and fruit. We are beds one and two--they are assigned by your arrival time. What a beautiful facility! Took a shower, put wash in with a pilgrim from Brussels and another from Hungary. The washing machine is free but the dryer is one euro. Washing powder is available from the reception desk for 50 cents. Takes an hour and 15 minutes to wash so I will be doing some power napping in a little bit. It is one euro for 15 minutes so this will be quick.

Spent last evening with six people from Ireland, one from Brussels and another from England. It was good to find English speakers! But then we discussed politics and religion--a heady topic if there was one to bring in so many different perspectives. Made reservations for dinner so we were able to get in before the crowd. We had Russian salad (a mayo mixture of carrots, peas, and capers), stuffed red peppers and yogurt for dessert. Not getting a whole lot of fiber in all of this!

They ended up opening the school last night so the overflow could sleep there. There were some mattresses but not enough for everyone. When others were asked to share their sleeping mats, most refused. Seems it was more a language problem than anything else. But my heart went out to the older folks who didn´t seem to know what to do and didn´t have any provision for such an event. I have talked with a number of people who said they came in September because the crowds are usually less. The numbers seem to be increasing. I am amazed by the number of Koreans, Indians, and Japanese. Very few Americans.

I am finding myself talking to the many animals along the way. A lot of wild horses, sheep, goats and of course cows. Lots of animal droppings on the Camino. A reminder how often we have to navagate that stuff to get through. I also spoke to a very old tree yesterday--how many pilgrims has it watched passing by?

Buenos dias!

Tonight in Zubiri

Woke up early this morning and was packed up and ready to go when the doors of the refugio opened at 6:15 a.m. Another pilgrim and I walked in the darkness--well at least when we were under trees as the moon was bright. Stopped in the next town for espresso and an egg sandwich. VERY cold this morning and windy. But when the sun came up, the sky was clear blue. Finally warmed up this afternoon but perfect day for walking. What was tough today were the millions of small rocks on the way down to Zubiri. The bottoms of my feet ache. The Larrasona alberque is closed for three days so hundreds of pilgrims were stranded here in Zubiri as the next albergue is an additional 15 miles. Luckily I got here at noon and was able to snag a bed right away. But while waiting for a friend to show up, I got to tell at least 60 pilgrims that everything was full since the way into town is by the alberque were I am staying. Finally at 4:00 they decided to open the school so pilgrims could sleep there. I felt horrible for many of the older pilgrims as they were the late arrivers and I doubt many of the young ones will give up their cots. In addition, the grocery closed at 2 p.m. and nothing will be open tomorrow and unfortunately the bar also closed at 2 and won´t reopen until 7:30 p.m. And there is no restaurant other than the bar. There is a lot of pent-up demand and frustration in this tiny town tonight, let me tell you!

The pilgrim office reported that over 300 pilgrims signed in at SJPP day before yesterday--not even counting those who were starting at Roncesvalles. Roncesvalles was packed and they had to open up the annex. Record numbers are coming through and if today was any indication, the system is going to be mightily stressed. Luckily no one (out of 120 people!) snored! That was a shock. The Pilgrim´s Mass was very meaningful but I was greatly disturbed by the number of pilgrims who took flash photos all through the service. How disrespectful! Any one who knows me, knows I do not take kindly to people who treat worship as something to be treated as something common. At least wait until after the service if you want to take pictures.....OK, I´ll get off my soapbox.

In thinking about yesterday, it was a humbling day. The weather was terrible, no question. But a Dutch couple had tried to warn me that I was going the wrong way but I did not understand what they were saying and so went on. There are not many English speakers--I have spent most of time with French speaking folks (France and Canada)--a real Tower of Babel. But sometimes, even when you don´t understand, you need to step back and relook at the situation. I could not see them, nor could they see me due to the fog and sleet storm but they yelled out--I should have stopped right then and then. Lesson heard, Lord! I did see them today on the trail and tried to thank them. I have no idea if they have a clue but I am thankful. And today I was thankful for glorious weather and a healthy body. Tired but still raring to go! And the barb wire wounds are starting to heal. Thank you for your kind words and prayers! I hold you in my heart and in my prayers.

Arrived in Roncesvalles

I flew into Pamplona and took transport to SJPP for my start on Thursday. The flight from Boston caught a tailwind and landed two hours early so I got to sit in the Madrid airport and cool my heels. I had hoped to sleep on the flight but that was not to be. My seat partner turned out to be an Iberian flight attendant--good news because he was served first class food and shared, including wine. We talked for a good time but by the time he went to sleep up in his bunk, we were two hours from landing and they began breakfast service almost immediatly. So much for the best laid plans!

Pamplona is beautiful. I took bus 21 into the city. For 1.10 euro, it drops you off at Cortes Ingles--a wonderful department store with incredible food in the lower level. Boy was I tempted but when you have to carry it all, temptation goes down the drain. A few snack bars and a loaf of bread. As long as you have bread, you are OK. Sent my package off to Santiago after figuring out the postal system. Two angels helped immensely. I roamed the city but finally was so tired I walked to the bus station and napped on the grass. Transport arrived at 4:30. I arrived in SJPP around 7:oo pm. Wonderful dinner and hospitality at LÉsprit. Salad, pasta with eggplant and tomato sauce, bread, and yogurt. Then immediately to bed after a shower. 30 hours without sleep is never pretty.

Today was a hard one. Finally crossed the Pyrenees today in rain and sleet into Spain. Then I made a wrong turn somewhere after the peak as I couldn´t see in the dense fog-which eventually led me down the mountain to a small town where I learned that I was in the wrong place. So back up the mountain in the blowing rain to the top. Three additional hours and probably 6 extra miles I did not need. So today I not only climbed the mountain once, I then climbed it again. In addition I took a¨"shortcut" through a field with cows and pigs. Meant I then had to figure out how to get across the barb wire fence--I now have a few wounds from that adventure! I do give thanks that the cows weren´t attracted to my red poncho! Yesterday started out overcast, then rain, and then clearing in the later afternoon. It took me a lot less time to climb 4,000 feet than I thought--so I paid double for that today in the final 2,000 feet. Taking lots of pictures. The moon shone through my window last night and woke me up. Nothing like sleeping in a spotlight. The sunrise this morning was covered by clouds but I did get some wonderful pictures of the Pyrenees before the weather abruptly changed. I feel those prayers! Thank you!