I attempted to post in Porto but I couldn't get in--again! It would not let me sign in from a strange computer...grrrrr. So I gave up even trying--especially since 15 minutes costs ,50e. It is not fun spending money attempting to make an uncooperative program pay attention to your needs!
Now that I have returned from sunny Portugal and Spain in good health and with no blisters (again!), I will attempt to post over the next days and perhaps weeks. I will also try to post some pictures as I took well over 600 of them! And did I say it was sunny? Other than the day we arrived in Porto (a misty rain) and the day we walked into Santiago (again, misty rain), we had SUN! I now have a brown ring around my neck and a brown tan line from my knee down to the top of my sock. Tres chic!
On Friday, it was raining and an otherwise miserable, overcast day to leave town. After a long flight from Washington, DC to JFK to Madrid, we arrived in Porto to rain and fog. A great opportunity to try out our ponchos! There was a mad huddle in the metro station as everyone attempted to get them out and on without killing ourselves with laughter as we became pretzels. We found the tourist office at the airport and purchased tourist cards for the metro for 15euro. These allow you three days of unlimited travel on the metro, buses and trams with no area limits. I added up what we were already going to do and these were a good deal for us. Porto's metro requires you to validate at little kiosks before you enter the station and each time you change trains--some obviously play the challenge game and ride the metro trains without cards (the fine is 165euro) as we saw some ignore the validation step.
Once we arrived in the old city, we had to walk down a steep cobblestone street to our Hostel--The Dixo. Unfortunately Rick fell on the cobblestones--caution, slippery when wet! A skinned knee doesn't go too well with an exhausted traveler! Especially when you are behind everyone else and no one notices.... We found the Dixo, walked up the stairs to reception and found that Mirelle was there, showered and having already scouted for food. Our rooms were lovely. They overlooked the street from three floors up. After a little clean up, we were ready to eat and drink. We walked up to the Praca de Liberdad (where there is a McDonalds Imperial--you should see this building!) and ordered wine and tapas at a little cafe. We sat out under an umbrella and enjoyed the foot traffic around us. A delightful meal on what became a pleasant if not just a little chilly evening. We went over to the Cathedral to get our sellos and find our first Camino arrows. Then back to the hostel for showers and bed. We were tired little pilgrims!
I got up early the next morning. Attempted to use the free internet and to blog but no go. So I took my camera out on the deck overlooking the Duoro River and watched the sunrise over the city. The Dixo is located in the heart of the Riberia area of Porto--the oldest part of the city and close to the docks. The location is great and the staff very helpful. Breakfast is included--wonderful rolls, cheese, ham, fresh orange juice, cafe with hot milk or hot chocolate, and cereals--up in the upper room (the deck is off this area--five floors up) with a panoramic view of the city and Gaia across the river.
Rick, Judy, Mirelle and I went to St. James Anglican Church for Sunday services. We took the metro and then walked the six or seven blocks down. Typically, St, James is surrounded by a tall stone wall with a little brass plaque reading "British Church of St. James". When you walk through the gates, you are astonished by the lovely gardens, a fountain and a beautiful little church. We were warmly greeted by a gentleman and invited not only to the service but to join them for sherry after the service. Gotta love it! I always forget that the Anglican service is just enough different from ours to cause me to stumble. The sermon was long and rambling--I got several looks from my fellow pilgrims--as though I could do something about it? After the service, we gathered at the St. James window (St. James dressed as a pilgrim) and said a prayer of blessing for the journey ahead. Took our pictures there, greeted the Rector who was from Conn, and then walked back to the hostel. Figured it was just as easy as walking north to take the metro.
On our way, we encountered a bird market--lots of amazing parrots and other birds, lots of bird supplies and toys. We saw so many birds in windows and on porches that I am inclined to believe that the Portuguese really like their birds. We were running late but met Renee and Pat back at the hostel for our venture across the river--the Port tasting cellars. Isn't that necessary when you are in Porto?? We decided to go for Taylors. We crossed the Eiffel bridge and seeing the Taylor sign (800 meters but without a directional arrow), we veered to the left. Not the best move as we climbed higher and higher and higher until we ran out of road and literally into a parking garage at the top of the hill! A man in the garage told us we needed to go down and turn left at the first street. Eventually we did find Taylor's but we were hot and tired and HUNGRY. This is never a good combination when the day is beautiful and you are surrounded by lovely gardens, delicious looking food and divine Port.
We were dressed in our pilgrim garb and felt very underdressed at the Fladgate (Taylor's restaurant) but what the heck. They were very welcoming and gracious to us. Many of the tables were filled with a family obviously celebrating a child's birthday party (one special little girl with an amazing pink cake). Mario, our waiter, was charming. We started with a white Port--mighty fine. Then came the food and more Port. Everything was delicious. "Anything is possible in Portugal" became the new slogan as the meal progressed. And then dessert and the BIG decision--which Port would we conclude with? We tasted a 10 year, a 20 year and then the 40 year--you live only once. A nice 40 year old would do just nicely! So then, more than satisfied at all levels, we staggered away from the Fladgate and down into the Gaia area to stroll through the market area on the waterfront. Let it be known that some purchases were made but not by Rick or me! There are shoppers in the group.........you know who you are!
We walked across the bridge and took the tram up to walk the upper level of the bridge to see the city from that perspective. Then back to the Riberia area to stroll around. Lots of little shops and open market stands. The problem is they all have most of the exact same things. Porto is a lovely town. It is important to wear good shoes because the cobblestones are everywhere. Rick went to see if the Cathedral was open because he had forgotten his credential when the rest of us got our sellos (pilgrim stamps). Unfortunately the Cathedral was open but the welcome desk was not. Boo hoo.
If you go to Porto, you MUST go inside the Sao Bento train station. There are the most incredible tile murals on the walls. Who would have thought you'd find something like that in a train station???? Then more pasteries and delights were purchased for an early breakfast--because on Monday morning at 6:30 a.m. we would begin! That night Judy attempted to charge her Kindle. Unfortunately she also blew out the circuit and the lights went out! The night manager came up "very straaaaanga, very straaaaaanga" she said. But it was quickly resolved and the lights went back on. Unfortunately Judy's charger was a goner so she charged her Kindle on my charger and all was well. How come the night was so short??? More to follow.
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