The really good news about Spain......

Not only is the country beautiful and the people gracious but the wine is both good and cheap, the bread excellant and the cheese.......well the cheese is enough to keep you drinking wine and eating bread. I am coming to the stark reality that my camera will not return. But with two bottles of wine (how can you fault good wine at 2 euro a bottle??), good company and plenty of cheese, I am coming to terms. I will simply have to remember in my quickly fading mind what I have seen and experienced. I was hoping to have photographs to bring things to memory but that is, I guess the way of the Camino. Things are given and things are taken away. I continue to meet more Canadians so I guess that is my fate. Many share my pain at this loss--such is the companionship and compassion of the Camino. Tomorrow Astorga and perhaps the purchase of another camera. We´ll see. I simply cannot imagine arriving in Santiago without a photographic moment. Looks like I just might make the walk to Finisterre as well. No blisters, knee holding OK, but the legs are tired and hurting. Ibuprophen is a miracle drug. Continue to pray for the return of the camera--I cannot imagine a pilgrim picking it up and not attempting to find the owner. Blessings this beautiful but sad night.

Now if I can only stop crying

Somewhere between the end of the puente and the albergue, my camera disappeared. We´ve been up and down the street four times, checked with the local bars, and talked with pilgrims but it is gone. So are all my pictures--some 500+ of them. I am sick. I´ve given my name and phone number to some Italians moving forward and the albergues here both have my name but I have no hope that it will turn up. I would hope a pilgrim would turn it in here but sometimes what is lost becomes truly lost. I pray that it will show up--after all, Grace´s picture in Leon is on that chip. Pray for me that the profound sadness I feel will lift. Blessings on this day from one very, very, very sad peregrina.

Beautiful day in Hospital de Orbiga

Leon is delightful. Took lots of pictures. The Cathedral breathtaking and San Isodore lovely. We had our pictures taken with the very tired pilgrim in St. Mark Square--and Grace had her picture taken with him too. After a brief visit in Leon, we are now in Hospital de Orbigo. Beautiful sunny day with a light breeze. The Meseta is tough. Not because it involves climbs or anything like that. It is tough because it is long, rocky and when mixed with asphalt, it is so hard on the legs and feet. I don´t think I ever have to do this part again! At least the weather has turned delightful though still a little on the cool side.

Last night we were once again astonished by pilgrims who do not look around to be aware of others. Everyone was trying to sleep so I got up and turned off the lights. One girl got up and turned on the lights. Then left them on. I got up and turned them off again. She wanted them on for some strange reason I could not understand because she was Korean--but everyone there was trying to sleep. Then off again with the lights until later at curfew when several pilgrims came in and threw on all the lights and began talking loudly and laughing. It is a reminder to stay in the smaller albergues.

Wish you all could see this beautiful country. The people are so warm and welcoming. Each time I am in a city, the number of people who go out of their way to help pilgrims is touching. One man walked us to the alberque. A woman hailed us from across the street to point out the way. And though I do not speak much Spanish, I have been able to navigate remarkably well. And met additional Canadians yesterday and today. I swear there can be no one left there! More to follow.

May God bless you on your own journey. May the grace of God open your eyes to see the beauty laid out around you. And may the peace of Christ open your heart to receive the bounty found in the generosity of others. This is an amazing journey, my friends, and I thank you for the opportunity to experience it.

Arrived in Caldadilla de la Cueza

We are slowing down. The Meseta really takes its toll. The path is wide and straight and fairly level but the rocks and wind really take it out of you. It is cold--40 degrees F in the morning and very windy. The days don´t warm up that much either. We were in Carrion last night. Stayed in Hostal Santiago. As we came into town, a woman told us the alberque we were looking (Espiritu) for was not good and recommended this place. Turns out it is HER place. We shared a room with two German women who spoke no English so we spent a lot of time with sign language. Guess it was OK because we only had to share a bathroom with a few other people. But the German women woke up very early this morning (one was a snorer) so we too ended up getting going early. Marcel may have a stress fracture so we are evaluating options at this point. One of the pilgrims we started with in St. Jean had to be rushed to the hospital yesterday--he passed out and couldn´t be revived. The Camino takes its toll.

We had dinner at a little bar and I finally got some beef! After a quite good salad with beets and carrots and other vegetables (a real treat as vegetables are not all that easy to come by), the beef turned out to be pot roast in a delicious broth. Ah, heaven! For two days I have been craving some red protein. The fish has been good but not very much of it on a little trout. There have been no kitchens so we have been unable to make boiled eggs. Carrion is a pretty little town. We sat at the window at the bar and watched all the townspeople leave the church and begin their evening rambla. The Spanish take Saturday evenings very seriously. First you go to church and then you walk. Everyone is out and the children run everywhere. There may have been a wedding yesterday afternoon because the whole town was outfitted in suits and dresses and we saw a couple--she was dressed in a very traditional dress with a flower in her hair and the man had a matching tie with his suit. Then we saw vases of beautiful flowers being carried through town.

We decided to take a short day today as everyone is tired and we do not know how Marcel´s leg is going to go. In addition, Frances has broken out with something so I gave her benedryl. We will rest here this afternoon and decide. The sun has finally come out so maybe the laundry which has been damp now for two days will finally dry. So far my feet are fine. No blisters. I am almost embarassed as it seems to be a pilgrim thing to compare them. My legs hurt but if I slow down, I can make the distance. It is tempting to try to go faster to keep up with people who are much younger--this is not wise.

Long discussion with some other pilgrims yesterday about trust. How difficult it is to trust, how often we withhold it from one another, and how easily it is destroyed. It is amazing to have these conversations with people from all over the world.

Arrived in Fromista

Today did not begin well. First there was a woman in our room who snored loudly and when someone tried to tell her she was snoring, she called them a nasty name and went right back to snoring. Then she woke at 5 a.m. and insisted that everyone get up! It was raining heavily this morning, windy and COLD. So into the darkness we went only to reach a terrible climb right off the bat. Nothing like cold rain to get your spirits dampened as you climb a very steep climb. At the top there was nothing but fog. Pyrenees here we are again. And then on the way down, the clay soil stuck to your boots making each one weigh about five pounds more. We tried to walk in the fields but that was just as bad. Now let me give you a picture: imagine having to pee and it is raining and cold, you have a pack on your back and are covered with a poncho. What do you do? My answer to that question was: you do nothing. You keep right on walking. Not a good way to start a morning. I can appreciate those who walk in the spring rains. Even after the rain stopped, the mud did not. Boots are a mess and mud is all over everything from the knees down.

The Meseta continues on gravel roads and mud ones. We stopped in Boadillia to prepare a lunch of bread, wonderful tomatoes, Manchego cheese, and cookies. The albergue in Boadillia has a beautiful garden with sculptures and lots of green grass around a swimming pool. Beyond Boadillia, the roadside is really pretty. Many beech trees and a lovely canal. Still cold and overcast with ocassional sprinkles. Two of us have matching red ponchos and we are known as the ¨tomatoes¨ so today the tomatoes were in constant view of anyone following us on the Camino.

We arrived in Fromista around 1 p.m. We are staying at a relatively new albergue, Estrella, which is several blocks off the Camino. It is still cold but since we were not able to wash laundry yesterday, today we had to do something or the offending odors would make us very unpleasant to be around. So took hot showers (no, I did not wait for everyone else today) and then laundry. But it is not drying in the cold, damp air. And now it is raining again. The owner put the laundry lines in his garage so hopefully over night it will dry a little more. A nap was nice but again, cold so wrapped up in two blankets. Food choices today weren´t great but dinner was offered at 6 p.m. (versus the usual Pilgrim meal at 7 or 7:30) so OK. Had ensalada mixta, fried eggs, and rice pudding, and of course, bread and wine. Tonight will probably be an early to bed night. We have a man who snores (naps tend to reveal their presence) and who takes longer to get into bed than anyone I have ever seen. He can rustle more plastic bags and zip and unzip more zippers than I thought was possible to carry on the Camino. The presence of such people continues to remind me that we are constantly surrounded with challenging people but we are still called to be gracious and respectful. Not always easy or even a first response, but it is the way we are called to be. God´s blessing be upon you.

Now in Castrojeriz

Left Burgos yesterday morning in the pouring rain and 8 degrees centigrade. Very, very windy. Ran into familiar faces in Burgos. It always surprises me how frequently I know someone now in the crowd. Went to the farmacia for a knee brace, walked through a spectacular supermercado near downtown with all fresh fish, meats, olives, herbs, vegetables and fruits and breads. Walked to Rabe. Stayed in the recently reopened albergue there. The nasty French woman from the other albergue tried to convince us that we had to come to her place. We did not. She sat at her table with a scowl all afternoon. No one went to her place until the first albergue was full.

The remoded albergue is very nicely done. Dinner was good but NO WINE! How can a pilgrim expect to go on without wine? Left this morning in the darkness--dawn is coming later and later and there is no longer much of a moon. Got to Hontanas around 10 a.m. The day started with clouds, wind and very cold but by late morning, the sun began to peek through and the temperature rose a little. Still cold but a very nice way to walk the Meseta which are the plains of Spain you hear so much about. I cannot imagine doing this on a hot, sunny day. My hat is off to those who do it! So many new wind turbines going up! The cranes were very busy today lifting the columns up.

The terrain has changed so much over the past weeks. I can hardly believe that today I begin my third week. I have gone from mountains and forest to vineyards to fields of hay and wheat to vast plains. The many animals of the first weeks have disappeared. Very few farm animals are apparent now.

Arrived at Castrojeriz around 1 p.m. A long 4k walk to Castrojeriz along the road. Yuk. Had a cold shower--that will teach me to be gracious and let everyone else go first. It is cold and now I am still cold. Then off to the little tienda for tomatoes, bananas, wine and bread for the grand sum of 4 euros. I find myself living on bread, wine, cheese and fruit. This is a lovely little town. So much renovation going on. And an amazing panoramic view of the land. Lunch and then a little nap. I continue to be surrounded with Canadians. I am beginning to wonder if there is any one left in Canada! Last night and today almost everyone is from Canada. And by the end of the trip, I may understand a little French! I am already getting some of the conversations--which is lucky since that is practically the only language I hear. However I am the one they turn to when they need someone to interpret the Spanish. I did meet a young woman today from South Africa. It was nice to have a conversation with someone for whom English was their usual language. She walked to Santiago from Astorga last year and began this year from Burgos to walk to Astorga. She hopes to start from St. Jean next year and go to Burgos.

I keep leaving bits and pieces. And isn´t that the way? We get busy or distracted and suddenly discover that something we thought was important is now gone. Whether that is a possession or our youth or even a friendship. I lost my towel, lost my laundry soap and line and clothespins, and I am almost afraid to look deeply into my pack today to discover what I may have left in Rabe. Two Canadian women came in late yesterday--having just arrived in the country, talked loudly when we were trying to nap, got up several times during the night and left the door open so the light shone in my face, and then got very insistent with me this morning when I was trying to pack up--to get out and close the door! I didn´t thoroughly inspect around my bunk in my hurry to get out so I kept wondering today what was left behind.

I continue to marvel at the people who act as though no one else is affected by their behavior. The people who won´t turn out a light when they come in late, who sing loudly in the shower when others are trying to nap, who leave their messes in the kitchens, who leave their trash every where, and who talk on their cellphones when others are trying to sleep. There are many wonderful and gracious pilgrims but unfortunately there appear to be almost as many self absorbed and selfish ones.

Each day I ask for God´s guidance and love for you and for me. I don´t know when I have had so much time to reflect in silence. Thankfully my walking partners do not chatter so that my walking time is truly dedicated to prayer, reflection and raising up of many questions to God. I give great thanksgiving that I have this tremendous gift of time and a body that continues to perform admirably. No blisters. Only a knee that continues to act up from time to time. God´s peace.

Have arrived in Burgos

The crowds continue. Today is cold and very windy. We left Villafranca this morning (stayed in a lovely albergue attached to a hotel. Very nice and the same cost as the municiple!) and crossed the second of three mountain ranges. Long day. We are at the new refugio in Burgos right near the Cathedral. Very nice. Many familiar faces here. Including the man who wore the black thong in Pamplona. He is still roaming around but is thankfully dressed this time! Turns out many of the younger ones have been using buses to skip the ¨boring small towns¨ so that is why we rarely see them on the trail. This is one hopping place tonight. The partying is strong with the bikers and younger ones. We got the last two beds and a mattress tonight. We are in the ¨laundry room¨on the fourth floor which could be a real problem because the light automatically turned on at 7 p.m. tonight and there is no way to turn it off or on. The joys of Camino! Not much time and there is a line waiting to use the internet so I will hopefully get to update tomorrow. God is good and grace abundant.