Now in Ponferrada--only 202km from Santiago

We have decided to slow down. Now no more than 22k per day. Those 30+ days are too hard on the body and soul. Besides the heat has returned in the afternoons. We are still leaving around 6:30 to 7 a.m. but dawn is now after 7:30 a.m. One of my learnings from the lost camera is that I have to take time to take the images into my mind and heart--which involves slowing down to notice. Yesterday´s sunrise was one of the most beautiful of all. I purchased a new camera in Astorga (did I already mention this?) because I want you to be able to see some of the wonderful people and vistas I am enjoying. The man at the camera shop was very compassionate. Though he did not speak much English and I am challenged to some extent in Spanish, he did everything he could to explain and check things out. He set the date, time, and language for me (English instructions are on CD which obviously I could not use!) and gave me an extra set of batteries and a camera case at no charge. The instructions came in French, German and of course, Spanish, so now my French companions have been helping me. I now have this camera clipped to my pack so it cannot get away!

We climbed the highest elevation on the Camino yesterday from Rabanal. Going up is fine for me. And up we certainly did go. Placed my rock at the Iron Cross yesterday (a pilgrim tradition to leave your rock as a symbol of letting go of your burdens) amid the crowds. Many people had arrived by taxi so it was a bit disconcerting to wait in a line one more time. I did discover on the way down from the Iron Cross that leaving your rock is only a transition, not a completion. Letting go is much more difficult than a single act. But when I placed my rock, it instantly slipped away and out of sight among the many rocks so there was no way to ¨take it back.¨ Guess that commits me to doing the work involved in letting go. I spent the long, rocky descent thinking and contemplating--though the rocks on the descent took a great deal of concentration and focus. One mistep and you are toast. Guess that is the way of rocks! One false move and they get you! But when you give one away, it slips away from your grasp. Letting go of what burdens our souls and minds is not easy. The first step is identifying the burdens and the second is the reality that sometimes we would rather hang on to them for a variety of reasons. After all, if we let them go, we might have little to complain about!

We stayed in Reigo last night--oh my, what a terrible climb down from the mountain. Rocky and steep. My feet and knee were killing me. But still no blisters. We had stopped for a while to take off boots and drink water in Acebo but nothing was open there except the bar. The Reigo alberque is nice. Each bunk is in its own little room with sliding doors for privacy. And there is room for only 24 people so no crowd scenes. A refreshing change. It is operated by the owner of the bar--hence no other facilities to buy food in the town. Reigo must be a retirement or vacation town as many of the houses were very beautifully restored and plentiful plantings. Expensive cars parked out front. The church there is lovely and surrounded by olive trees and views of the mountains that can´t be beat. I ate dinner last night at the Ënglish¨table. A couple from South Africa, a French woman, and a German woman from East Germany--since we all spoke English, I could understand everything for a change. We had a wonderful conversation about the state of church and how we come to believe what we believe. The Camino is an incredible mixture of culture and religious experience. It is fascinating to learn about others´ experiences and questions. In many ways, we are so very similar and the questions that drive us are the same. And yet our cultural situation shapes what we expect from the church. Some expect nothing and others expect everything.

Took a short day today to land in a city with stores because nothing is open on Sunday (they still practice Sabbath and the tradition of the long Sunday walk). We arrived with absolutely no food in our packs. We have been unable to purchase additional food for the past two days--had to make do with whatever we had and eat dinner in bars. So tonight we will cook! Ponferrada is a beautiful city. We toured the Templar Castle and walked through the various town squares. I ended up purchasing a camera in Astorga so I took Grace´s picture in front of the Castle. The basillica here is probably the most peaceful of those we have been able to enter (most churches continue to be locked). There is an organ concert tonight but it is too late for us pilgrims to attend. The town refugio is lovely and manned by volunteers. You can take showers and do your laundry when you arrive as check in for rooms is not until 2 p.m. This is a very nicely thought out refugio. Bunks are in rooms of 4. There is a refugio cat who is very friendly. And there are grapes growing on the trellis which are cut each day, washed and offered to pilgrims. I took a picture of the line-up of packs. Many, many are here. Some familiar faces in the crowd. The line at 4 p.m. was as long as the line at opening. I think there will be many headed for Villafranca tomorrow. We went to the grocery. Dinner tonight will be veal with mushrooms and green peppers, boiled potatoes, green salad with carrots, cucumber and white asparagus, and for dessert--apple cake. And of course, wine and bread. A bottle of good Rioja wine is about 2 euros. You just can´t beat that!

Blessings upon you all. May the Holy Spirit find an opening in your heart for the peace and understanding you seek.