Now in Redicilla del Camino

We began around 5 a.m. this morning. WAY too early but we are in the midst of a crowd before and after us. The refugio in Asofra is very nice. Two beds to a room! They did have to open up both the annex refugio and the original small one next to the church. Every bed was taken by 1 p.m. We were in rooms 0 and 1. Very noisy as the reception area and common gathering area is right there--but this morning it was great because we could get out without disturbing anyone. Additional toilets are right there. We walked into Santo Domingo around 8 a.m. this morning in time to stop for fresh pastries and coffee close to the Cathedral. Such is the pilgrim life. You get up, get your stuff together, take a big swig of water, eat a fruit or yogurt and get moving. By the end of the first hour or so you begin thinking about how good a hot cup of coffee sounds. By the second or third, you start to wonder about what might taste good with that coffee. Today is a big festival in Santo Domingo so many preparations were at hand. Parade horses were being readied and the street cleaners were out in force. I have been so impressed with the cleanliness of the many towns. Most of the towns I know in the USA could never come close. Unfortunately the Cathedral in Santo Domingo was closed up tight--as have been many of the churches we´ve passed, so I didn´t get to see the rooster and hen.

We stopped to take our boots off and eat some fruit in Granon after deciding to go on. Leaving Granon, we entered the Leon region. Looking at an overall map of the Camino, it doesn´t look like I´ve gone very far at all. We are now in Redicilla del Camino, a donativo public refugio. The tiniest showers on earth but hey, when you need a little warm water, almost anything will do. It is filling very quickly. I was hoping the crowding would begin to slow down but so far, no luck. There are many we started with who are behind us now but there are just as many (or more??) ahead. There are some young men doing 31 to 38 kilometers a day to see if they can get ahead of all this. I continue to be impressed by people who labor on with blisters and major physical pain. I continue to be unimpressed by people who go only from one town to the next and then sit there drinking the inexpensive wine all afternoon. I know I shouldn´t be judgmental but when everything is so crowded, it does irritate just a little.

Many couples are on the Camino. In conversations, it seems one partner was convinced to do this by the other. This is not a good combination. You have to be personally drawn to the Camino or it is bound to be a disappointment or problem. Several couples are experiencing some real distress because the less interested one is finding the struggles and the crowds to be too much. You have to walk your own Camino whether you come alone or come with someone. No one else can do it for you. At the same time, no one can force you to embrace the sacrifices and discomforts with any sense of joy or expectation if you do not want to be here. Some came expecting a cheap European vacation. Certainly the refugios are typically inexpensive and the Camino towns do their best to provide hospitality at a reasonable cost. But this is not a vacation. If you can´t handle the physical and emotional cost of the Camino, you will leave wondering why in the world it continues to draw so many into its embrace. I have been fascinated by the families (parents and young adults) who are doing the Camino together. There has been some real bonding where everyone was excited and committed to doing whatever it takes. But where there is unrealistic neediness, there are some fractures occuring.

The weather today is cool and cloudy. Excellant weather for walking long distances. We did more than 19 miles today at better than 3 miles per hour despite the inclines. But my body is not pleased. Today I hurt all over. But especially my legs. This is the first time I have felt like I really need a day off. Today was a mix of pavement and hard packed clay and gravel road. I wonder if I lost an inch of height today?? The next mountain range looms right after Belorado. I am debating going the 10k to Belorado tomorrow and calling it day.

This is my second Sunday on the Camino. I hold St. James´in my daily prayers but especially on Sundays I ask for God´s direction and grace for our congregation. May your Camino, wherever it may be, take you to the places where you will encounter the risen Lord.