In Fonfria

Well I have decided to slow down. My Canadian friends were off to a 28k day. Not for me. My legs are in pain--so much so it was difficult to sleep last night. So I ended today around noon with a little down time to write and just converse with others. Tomorrow I may go only to Tricastela--we´ll see how I feel in the morning. This is a tiny, tiny town. Four houses, some cows and chickens and us pilgrims. The albergue is very nice and very few of us are here. Such a delight! The climb over O´Cebrerio this mornign was lovely but oh, the ups and downs today! And after the mountain climb yesterday.......well, this is the end of mountains. Santiago is coming closer and closer and Galacia is beautiful. It is very cool and autumn has definitely arrived. Lots of turning leaves and the air is bright and fresh. Blessings upon you all.

Villafranca de Bierzo

Today was another long one on pavement. I continue to be surprised by the amount of walking on the Camino involves walking on concrete and other hard surfaces. My legs are killing me. But we took the alternate route through the vineyards and watched the grape harvest. They also plant apple and pear trees in the vineyards so several men were picking fruit. With the bedbug scare in the municiple alberque, we are staying in a private one on the other side of the bridge. Very nice and quiet. <

Now in Ponferrada--only 202km from Santiago

We have decided to slow down. Now no more than 22k per day. Those 30+ days are too hard on the body and soul. Besides the heat has returned in the afternoons. We are still leaving around 6:30 to 7 a.m. but dawn is now after 7:30 a.m. One of my learnings from the lost camera is that I have to take time to take the images into my mind and heart--which involves slowing down to notice. Yesterday´s sunrise was one of the most beautiful of all. I purchased a new camera in Astorga (did I already mention this?) because I want you to be able to see some of the wonderful people and vistas I am enjoying. The man at the camera shop was very compassionate. Though he did not speak much English and I am challenged to some extent in Spanish, he did everything he could to explain and check things out. He set the date, time, and language for me (English instructions are on CD which obviously I could not use!) and gave me an extra set of batteries and a camera case at no charge. The instructions came in French, German and of course, Spanish, so now my French companions have been helping me. I now have this camera clipped to my pack so it cannot get away!

We climbed the highest elevation on the Camino yesterday from Rabanal. Going up is fine for me. And up we certainly did go. Placed my rock at the Iron Cross yesterday (a pilgrim tradition to leave your rock as a symbol of letting go of your burdens) amid the crowds. Many people had arrived by taxi so it was a bit disconcerting to wait in a line one more time. I did discover on the way down from the Iron Cross that leaving your rock is only a transition, not a completion. Letting go is much more difficult than a single act. But when I placed my rock, it instantly slipped away and out of sight among the many rocks so there was no way to ¨take it back.¨ Guess that commits me to doing the work involved in letting go. I spent the long, rocky descent thinking and contemplating--though the rocks on the descent took a great deal of concentration and focus. One mistep and you are toast. Guess that is the way of rocks! One false move and they get you! But when you give one away, it slips away from your grasp. Letting go of what burdens our souls and minds is not easy. The first step is identifying the burdens and the second is the reality that sometimes we would rather hang on to them for a variety of reasons. After all, if we let them go, we might have little to complain about!

We stayed in Reigo last night--oh my, what a terrible climb down from the mountain. Rocky and steep. My feet and knee were killing me. But still no blisters. We had stopped for a while to take off boots and drink water in Acebo but nothing was open there except the bar. The Reigo alberque is nice. Each bunk is in its own little room with sliding doors for privacy. And there is room for only 24 people so no crowd scenes. A refreshing change. It is operated by the owner of the bar--hence no other facilities to buy food in the town. Reigo must be a retirement or vacation town as many of the houses were very beautifully restored and plentiful plantings. Expensive cars parked out front. The church there is lovely and surrounded by olive trees and views of the mountains that can´t be beat. I ate dinner last night at the Ënglish¨table. A couple from South Africa, a French woman, and a German woman from East Germany--since we all spoke English, I could understand everything for a change. We had a wonderful conversation about the state of church and how we come to believe what we believe. The Camino is an incredible mixture of culture and religious experience. It is fascinating to learn about others´ experiences and questions. In many ways, we are so very similar and the questions that drive us are the same. And yet our cultural situation shapes what we expect from the church. Some expect nothing and others expect everything.

Took a short day today to land in a city with stores because nothing is open on Sunday (they still practice Sabbath and the tradition of the long Sunday walk). We arrived with absolutely no food in our packs. We have been unable to purchase additional food for the past two days--had to make do with whatever we had and eat dinner in bars. So tonight we will cook! Ponferrada is a beautiful city. We toured the Templar Castle and walked through the various town squares. I ended up purchasing a camera in Astorga so I took Grace´s picture in front of the Castle. The basillica here is probably the most peaceful of those we have been able to enter (most churches continue to be locked). There is an organ concert tonight but it is too late for us pilgrims to attend. The town refugio is lovely and manned by volunteers. You can take showers and do your laundry when you arrive as check in for rooms is not until 2 p.m. This is a very nicely thought out refugio. Bunks are in rooms of 4. There is a refugio cat who is very friendly. And there are grapes growing on the trellis which are cut each day, washed and offered to pilgrims. I took a picture of the line-up of packs. Many, many are here. Some familiar faces in the crowd. The line at 4 p.m. was as long as the line at opening. I think there will be many headed for Villafranca tomorrow. We went to the grocery. Dinner tonight will be veal with mushrooms and green peppers, boiled potatoes, green salad with carrots, cucumber and white asparagus, and for dessert--apple cake. And of course, wine and bread. A bottle of good Rioja wine is about 2 euros. You just can´t beat that!

Blessings upon you all. May the Holy Spirit find an opening in your heart for the peace and understanding you seek.

In Astorga

After a long night of tossing and turning and remembering all the photos I now I have lost, I am coming to terms with it. This morning during my prayer time, I heard the messsage: the treasure is in your heart not in a box. And within minutes, there was a tiny sacred heart image painted on one of the Camino bollards. I began to cry and to think and remember all those people and images I really do treasure and indeed, they/you are carried in my heart. I am still very sad about the loss but there is nothing we can do when things happen other than learn from them what there is to discover. Grief is such a confounding thing. It comes and goes like the wind--and yet as we contemplate what we have lost, we discover the beauty and lessons of what we had and yet continue to have. I will check with the albergues here in Astorga to see if by chance anyone turned in the camera but I have no hope that it will be found.

Santiago is getting closer. One picture I took in Leon said there was only 330k to Santiago. It is hard to believe that this time is drawing closer and closer. Today is a beautiful, clear fall day. I give thanks to God for good weather, good companions and for those who love and care about me. Blessings be with you.

The really good news about Spain......

Not only is the country beautiful and the people gracious but the wine is both good and cheap, the bread excellant and the cheese.......well the cheese is enough to keep you drinking wine and eating bread. I am coming to the stark reality that my camera will not return. But with two bottles of wine (how can you fault good wine at 2 euro a bottle??), good company and plenty of cheese, I am coming to terms. I will simply have to remember in my quickly fading mind what I have seen and experienced. I was hoping to have photographs to bring things to memory but that is, I guess the way of the Camino. Things are given and things are taken away. I continue to meet more Canadians so I guess that is my fate. Many share my pain at this loss--such is the companionship and compassion of the Camino. Tomorrow Astorga and perhaps the purchase of another camera. We´ll see. I simply cannot imagine arriving in Santiago without a photographic moment. Looks like I just might make the walk to Finisterre as well. No blisters, knee holding OK, but the legs are tired and hurting. Ibuprophen is a miracle drug. Continue to pray for the return of the camera--I cannot imagine a pilgrim picking it up and not attempting to find the owner. Blessings this beautiful but sad night.

Now if I can only stop crying

Somewhere between the end of the puente and the albergue, my camera disappeared. We´ve been up and down the street four times, checked with the local bars, and talked with pilgrims but it is gone. So are all my pictures--some 500+ of them. I am sick. I´ve given my name and phone number to some Italians moving forward and the albergues here both have my name but I have no hope that it will turn up. I would hope a pilgrim would turn it in here but sometimes what is lost becomes truly lost. I pray that it will show up--after all, Grace´s picture in Leon is on that chip. Pray for me that the profound sadness I feel will lift. Blessings on this day from one very, very, very sad peregrina.

Beautiful day in Hospital de Orbiga

Leon is delightful. Took lots of pictures. The Cathedral breathtaking and San Isodore lovely. We had our pictures taken with the very tired pilgrim in St. Mark Square--and Grace had her picture taken with him too. After a brief visit in Leon, we are now in Hospital de Orbigo. Beautiful sunny day with a light breeze. The Meseta is tough. Not because it involves climbs or anything like that. It is tough because it is long, rocky and when mixed with asphalt, it is so hard on the legs and feet. I don´t think I ever have to do this part again! At least the weather has turned delightful though still a little on the cool side.

Last night we were once again astonished by pilgrims who do not look around to be aware of others. Everyone was trying to sleep so I got up and turned off the lights. One girl got up and turned on the lights. Then left them on. I got up and turned them off again. She wanted them on for some strange reason I could not understand because she was Korean--but everyone there was trying to sleep. Then off again with the lights until later at curfew when several pilgrims came in and threw on all the lights and began talking loudly and laughing. It is a reminder to stay in the smaller albergues.

Wish you all could see this beautiful country. The people are so warm and welcoming. Each time I am in a city, the number of people who go out of their way to help pilgrims is touching. One man walked us to the alberque. A woman hailed us from across the street to point out the way. And though I do not speak much Spanish, I have been able to navigate remarkably well. And met additional Canadians yesterday and today. I swear there can be no one left there! More to follow.

May God bless you on your own journey. May the grace of God open your eyes to see the beauty laid out around you. And may the peace of Christ open your heart to receive the bounty found in the generosity of others. This is an amazing journey, my friends, and I thank you for the opportunity to experience it.