Now in Castrojeriz

Left Burgos yesterday morning in the pouring rain and 8 degrees centigrade. Very, very windy. Ran into familiar faces in Burgos. It always surprises me how frequently I know someone now in the crowd. Went to the farmacia for a knee brace, walked through a spectacular supermercado near downtown with all fresh fish, meats, olives, herbs, vegetables and fruits and breads. Walked to Rabe. Stayed in the recently reopened albergue there. The nasty French woman from the other albergue tried to convince us that we had to come to her place. We did not. She sat at her table with a scowl all afternoon. No one went to her place until the first albergue was full.

The remoded albergue is very nicely done. Dinner was good but NO WINE! How can a pilgrim expect to go on without wine? Left this morning in the darkness--dawn is coming later and later and there is no longer much of a moon. Got to Hontanas around 10 a.m. The day started with clouds, wind and very cold but by late morning, the sun began to peek through and the temperature rose a little. Still cold but a very nice way to walk the Meseta which are the plains of Spain you hear so much about. I cannot imagine doing this on a hot, sunny day. My hat is off to those who do it! So many new wind turbines going up! The cranes were very busy today lifting the columns up.

The terrain has changed so much over the past weeks. I can hardly believe that today I begin my third week. I have gone from mountains and forest to vineyards to fields of hay and wheat to vast plains. The many animals of the first weeks have disappeared. Very few farm animals are apparent now.

Arrived at Castrojeriz around 1 p.m. A long 4k walk to Castrojeriz along the road. Yuk. Had a cold shower--that will teach me to be gracious and let everyone else go first. It is cold and now I am still cold. Then off to the little tienda for tomatoes, bananas, wine and bread for the grand sum of 4 euros. I find myself living on bread, wine, cheese and fruit. This is a lovely little town. So much renovation going on. And an amazing panoramic view of the land. Lunch and then a little nap. I continue to be surrounded with Canadians. I am beginning to wonder if there is any one left in Canada! Last night and today almost everyone is from Canada. And by the end of the trip, I may understand a little French! I am already getting some of the conversations--which is lucky since that is practically the only language I hear. However I am the one they turn to when they need someone to interpret the Spanish. I did meet a young woman today from South Africa. It was nice to have a conversation with someone for whom English was their usual language. She walked to Santiago from Astorga last year and began this year from Burgos to walk to Astorga. She hopes to start from St. Jean next year and go to Burgos.

I keep leaving bits and pieces. And isn´t that the way? We get busy or distracted and suddenly discover that something we thought was important is now gone. Whether that is a possession or our youth or even a friendship. I lost my towel, lost my laundry soap and line and clothespins, and I am almost afraid to look deeply into my pack today to discover what I may have left in Rabe. Two Canadian women came in late yesterday--having just arrived in the country, talked loudly when we were trying to nap, got up several times during the night and left the door open so the light shone in my face, and then got very insistent with me this morning when I was trying to pack up--to get out and close the door! I didn´t thoroughly inspect around my bunk in my hurry to get out so I kept wondering today what was left behind.

I continue to marvel at the people who act as though no one else is affected by their behavior. The people who won´t turn out a light when they come in late, who sing loudly in the shower when others are trying to nap, who leave their messes in the kitchens, who leave their trash every where, and who talk on their cellphones when others are trying to sleep. There are many wonderful and gracious pilgrims but unfortunately there appear to be almost as many self absorbed and selfish ones.

Each day I ask for God´s guidance and love for you and for me. I don´t know when I have had so much time to reflect in silence. Thankfully my walking partners do not chatter so that my walking time is truly dedicated to prayer, reflection and raising up of many questions to God. I give great thanksgiving that I have this tremendous gift of time and a body that continues to perform admirably. No blisters. Only a knee that continues to act up from time to time. God´s peace.